10 stunning autumn walks where you can discover Cornwall's history

From the industrial ruins found in hidden valleys to the birthplace of a nation, buried in the sand dunes

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16:28, 29 AUG 2024
Updated11:50, 30 AUG 2024

Trevear Mill. (Image: Greg Martin / Cornwall Live)

Autumn is the perfect time of year for beautiful walks in Cornwall, and our coastal footpaths with picture postcard views are world-renowned. However, less well-trodden are some of the more secluded paths that lead to memories of the Duchy's past.

From the industrial ruins that can be found in hidden valleys, to the birthplace of a nation, buried in the sand dunes. Cornwall's history is waiting to be discovered by those willing to go off the beaten track.

These 10 suggested historic walks are just some of the many fascinating sites that could be your next Sunday adventure. There are, of course, many other stunning heritage hikes throughout Cornwall, some of which can be found at iwalkcornwall.co.uk

So, why not take a step back in time this autumn, and discover Cornwall's rich history on a weekend walk?

There are 21 pictures in this photo story - click on the 'Next' button at the bottom of the page to see them all.

1 - Tregargus Valley
A stunning vale in Cornwall, once known as the Hidden Valley, is the perfect place for anyone looking for a woodland walk with a difference this autumn. At the foot of the dazzling white hills of china clay works near St Stephen-in-Brannel, Tregargus Valley is home to the ‘finest collection of stone mills in Western Britain’, shrouded beneath the changing leaves.

Once home to seven china stone mills, five remain today in varying states of decay. This Victorian industrial architecture filled the tranquil valley with noise and activity for almost 100 years, before the site was abandoned in the 1960s and gradually reclaimed by nature ever since.
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Today, thanks to the ongoing work of the Tregargus Trust, visitors to the woods can explore this historically important site and discover the intriguing buildings hidden amongst the trees.

Read more: Perfect winter woodland walk in hidden valley with historic links
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2 - Golitha Falls
Golitha Falls is one of Cornwall’s most spectacular nature reserves, known for its series of breathtaking cascades and waterfalls. The dramatic landscape, which has been carved into a long gorge by the River Fowey, is designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, as well as being recognised as a Site of Special Scientific Interest for its rich abundance of woodland flora such as mosses, liverwort, wood anemone and lichens, including the rare Parmelia minarum.

The ancient woodland was also the home of the Wheal Victoria copper mine. Work began on opening up the first adit using just hand chisels, hammers and drill bits in 1844, and today, there are the remains of two wheel-pits on the banks of the river, the walls of which are the most striking features of Wheal Victoria copper mine that still exist.
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Not far from Draynes Bridge, which marks the start of Golitha Falls nature reserve, two large pieces of granite stand side-by-side next to a narrow, but busy road on Bodmin Moor. According to English Heritage, ‘these two fragments, one of which is known as King Doniert’s Stone, are the only surviving examples of 9th-century stone crosses in Cornwall.’

The smaller of the two stones, King Doniert’s Stone, bears the inscription ‘Doniert rogavit pro anima’ which English Heritage translate as ‘‘Doniert has asked [for this to be made] for his soul[’s sake’]’. It marks the untimely death of the last King of Cornwall, who is believed to have drowned at Golitha Falls over a thousand years ago in 875 AD. However, a question mark still hangs over the King’s demise.

Read more: Golitha Falls is Cornwall's most turbulent natural wonder with a dark history
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3 - The mysterious Rocky Valley labyrinths
Hidden deep in a beautiful, wooded valley in north Cornwall, lies a mystery that has intrigued visitors for the past 70 years.

Close to the footpath, behind the ruins of an old mill, there are rock carvings of two identical mazes, which have inspired people to make offerings, postulate stories, and recreate their likeness on a grand scale.

Not far from Tintagel, downstream from the more famous visitor attraction, St Nectan’s Glen, Rocky Valley channels the fast-flowing River Trevillet on the final part of its journey to the sea.

At one stage, there were four mills using this natural power source – the final one being Trethevy Mill, which produced cloth from about 1750 until it was abandoned in 1861.
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It was within the ruins of this mill, in 1948, that intriguing labyrinths were discovered, carved into the rock face.

Since then, these mazes, carved with great skill, have been reproduced as logos, artwork, tattoos and structures, whilst speculation continues about who could have created them and why.

Read more: Discover who carved the mysterious labyrinths in Cornwall
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4 - Poltesco Valley Serpentine Works
The old serpentine works in Carleon Cove at the bottom of Poltesco Valley were built in 1855 by the Lizard Serpentine Company.

The stone processing factory was created to meet an increased demand for ornamental wares made from the marble-like stone, found on The Lizard Peninsula.

The Penzance Serpentine Company already had a factory established in Wherrytown, Penzance, which Prince Albert had visited in 1946, prompting him to order a serpentine table and other pieces for Osborne House on the Isle of Wight.

This royal stamp of approval, along with an impressive serpentine display at The Great Exhibition in 1851, made the stone a must-have item in the homes of Victorian gentry.
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The Lizard Serpentine Company was wound up in 1870, and the factory was relaunched as the Poltesco Marble Company. This name change was, in part, due to the competition of cheaper marble from Italy, and the reputation that serpentine was getting for degrading quickly, especially in the elements.

By 1883, the workforce at the factory was down to twenty men and three boys, and in 1893, the Poltesco Marble Company closed and the serpentine works in the cove were abandoned.

Read more: Meet the last of the serpentine turners in Cornwall
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5- The abandoned Liskeard and Caradon Railway
High up on the southeast corner of Bodmin Moor, with its views stretching across the Tamar Valley and onto the hills of Dartmoor, ramblers are drawn to follow in the tracks of curious granite blocks, uniformly laid into the natural landscape, guiding them higher and higher.

The landscape here has not changed for centuries, but around 150 years ago, these granite sleepers numbered some 120,000, and, overlaid with train tracks, ran from Moorswater near Liskeard up to Kilmar Tor at almost 1300ft above sea level, making it the highest railway line in Cornwall.
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Old cart tracks at Bearah Tor granite quarry were very likely reclaimed from the abandoned Liskeard and Caradon Railway. Opened in March 1846, the railway that went from the heights of Bodmin Moor to the coast, was originally built to carry copper, tin, coal and granite.

Read more: Retracing the abandoned tracks of Cornwall's highest railway
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6 - Roger's Tower
Perched above the Castle-an-Dinas quarry, it is possible to see from the B3311, what appears to be (depending on your leisure time cultural references) either the smallest castle, or the biggest sandcastle in Cornwall.

Described as a folly, Rogers’ Tower is thought to have been built in 1798 by John Rogers who lived nearby at Treassowe Manor, on Tonkin Downs, below the hill on which it stands.

In their description of the folly, Historic England writes that Rogers’ Tower is a ‘miniature castle set prominently on the hill of Castle an Dinas, so that the building gives the impression that it and the hill are much larger than they really are.’
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From the ground, it is easy to miss that Rogers’ Tower was built on the southeast rampart of the ancient hillfort of Castle-an-Dinas. The remains of the circular walls are particularly difficult to distinguish when the area is overgrown in the summer, but from above, the size and shape of the hillfort are still very clear.

The folly was built from stone taken from the surrounding ramparts of the hillfort, and there is some suggestion that its original intended use was as a lookout over the English Channel during the Napoleonic Wars.

However, it seems that the main use of Rogers’ Tower was as a picnic destination for the Rogers family, to come and admire the view.

Read more: Uncovering the odd history of Cornwall's biggest sandcastle
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7 - Cornwall's clifftop engine houses
Few things get the blood of a Cornishman pumping faster than the rousing sight of an iconic engine house standing proudly above the blue sea. It is a scene which encapsulates both the beauty and the resilience of the Duchy, giving these structures lasting importance long after they were abandoned.

The landscape of Cornwall is dotted with these historical buildings from the tin mining era, but only a few cling dramatically to the edge of cliffs, brushing off hundreds of years of storms as testimony to the men who built them. It is these most scenic engine houses which have travelled the world on postcards, hosted months on calendars, and thrilled judges at camera clubs from St Just to St Austell.

However, behind the romanticised holiday brochure covers and Instagram posts, these breathtaking landscapes are steeped in a history of remarkable engineering, hard work and tragedy.

One of the most instantly recognisable coastal engine houses in Cornwall is Towanroath Shaft at Wheal Coates near St Agnes. There are records of mining at Wheal Coates that date back to 1692, but the ruins that are left today are from the final years of the mine. Towanroath Shaft pumping engine house was built in 1872, housing a steam engine that pumped water from a shaft that went 185 metres deep - well below sea level.

After Wheal Coates was abandoned in 1914, the engine house perched dramatically on the cliff was restored by the National Trust in 1973.
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Wheal Trewavas between Rinsey and Porthleven was a copper mine in operation for just 12 years, from 1834 to 1846.

Two engine houses were serving two shafts, Old Engine Shaft and New Engine Shaft, exploiting the copper lodes which ran out from the coast below the sea.

Although the Wheal Trewavas mine was successful, bringing up almost 18,000 tonnes of copper and employing 160 men, it had a terrible problem with flooding, and eventually had to be abandoned.

Read more: Incredible history behind Cornwall's most scenic clifftop engine houses
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8 - Jubilee Rock
At the edge of Bodmin Moor, high up on a hill with views that stretch far west across Cornwall, there lies a rock.

Not just any old rock, mind. This is a rock carved in history. A rock "thought to be the oldest stone on Bodmin Moor" by some. A rock that is Grade II listed, thanks to the actions of one man and his chisel 210 years ago.

This is the Jubilee Rock.

If you have never seen or even heard of Jubilee Rock, you are not alone. In the middle of nowhere, with no signs and barely a path to lead you to it, it is one of Cornwall’s lesser-known curiosities, despite its beauty and exceptional views.

However, 210 years ago, on October 25, 1810, this large granite boulder was the scene of much jubilation, as its freshly carved embellishments were officially unveiled.
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Located on Pendrift Downs, to the north of the village of Blisland, Jubilee Rock - measuring ten feet high and 25 feet across - dominates the landscape, even before you notice the unnatural markings covering it.

The words, pictures and emblems that adorn it were originally carved by a local soldier, Lieutenant John Rogers whilst he was on sick leave between 1809 and 1810, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the accession of King George III.

Jubilee Rock was restored and updated with new carvings in 1859 and 1887 for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee, at the joint expense of Lady Molesworth and Lord Falmouth.
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The rock was restored and added to again in 2012 to mark the Diamond Jubilee of Elizabeth II.

However, despite the intermittent restoration work, Jubilee Rock is, of course, very exposed to the elements. And over the years, as the lichen grows and the granite weathers, the carved lines fade and become harder to make out.

Read more: Cornwall's curious giant boulder covered in historic carvings
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9 - Lizard Windmill
Cornwall Wildlife Trust’s flagship nature reserve, spread across one of the most remote and peaceful sites in the county, is home to a dark history of criminal gangs, war and murder.

Windmill Farm Nature Reserve at Predannack Downs on the Lizard Peninsula was brought to life after the farm was jointly purchased by the Cornwall Birdwatching and Preservation Society and Cornwall Wildlife Trust with a grant from the Heritage Lottery Fund in 2001.

However, with the purchase came a stark warning from the farmer about the derelict windmill tower, which would eventually become the gateway to the reserve.

Having farmed the land for over 40 years, Mr E D Bishop had tried on many occasions to use the old windmill to house his livestock but said that they always refused to enter the building.

And, despite it being described by historian Charles Henderson as ‘The finest and most romantic of all Cornish windmills’ in 1935, Bishop was convinced that the mill was still haunted by its bloody past.
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Originally known as Lizard Windmill, the 11-metre tall tower is thought to have been built in the early 17 century using the local Serpentine stone. By 1695, the building is recorded as an ‘old mill’ on the Lanhydrock Atlas.

For centuries the mill would have been one of the most prominent landmarks on the Lizard Peninsula, and became such an important sea mark for sailors to navigate by, that even when it ceased to be used for milling in the mid-1800s, great effort was put into maintaining the derelict tower so that it did not collapse.

One of the most remote areas of Cornwall, with no civil authority in sight, the Lizard Peninsula at the beginning of the 19th century was a hotbed of criminal activity.

In the 1820s, a small band of sheep rustlers and footpads (highwaymen without horses) took advantage of the Lizard Windmill's lack of use and made it their base.

In 1829, the theft of four rams led to the eventual arrest of Alexander Hocking and James Jose from the now-notorious Windmill Gang.

Hocking was a butcher by trade and admitted that he had been employed by the gang to kill and cut up sheep inside the old mill.

The butchered meat was then taken to a hideout near Kynance Cove, which is still known today as Sheep-stealers Cave, before being shipped to Falmouth to be sold.

Two other local men, Stephen Jose and William Harris, were also identified as part of the Windmill Gang but subsequently drowned whilst trying to swim away from the authorities at Kynance Cove.

There is a field close to the windmill known as ‘Oliver Tucker’s Grave’, where Mr Tucker is said to have been murdered by members of the gang after giving evidence against them.

Read more: Notorious Cornish gang used derelict tower as a hideout
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10 - St Piran's Oratory
Not far inland from Perranporth Beach lie the remains of a chapel and a church, believed to once be at the heart of a monastic community.

St Piran's Oratory, one of Britain's oldest places of Christian worship, is believed to have been built on the site where the Cornish patron saint came ashore from Ireland and established a Christian centre of worship in the sixth or seventh centuries AD.

After becoming engulfed in wind-blown sand, the chapel was lost for centuries, before being rediscovered, excavated, entombed, reburied and finally excavated again most recently in 2014.
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In 1789, a local man, Christopher Cotty Jenkin, stopped at a spring for a drink of water whilst walking through the dunes, and noticed a gable end sticking out of the sand.

With stories passed down through generations of a chapel buried beneath the sand, this rediscovery eventually led to proper excavations of St Piran's Oratory in 1835 and 1843.

There is some debate over the age of the chapel, with archaeologists suggesting it was most likely built in the 11th or 12th century, but Historic England writes in its Grade II listing "The oratory chapel is thought to have been erected probably in the seventh century AD and remained in use perhaps until the 11th or 12th centuries."

If St Piran really did build a chapel here, it was most likely constructed of wood, and then replaced by the stone structure that we see the remains of today.

Read more: Birthplace of the Cornish nation lost behind Cornwall's busiest beach
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